El Camino Portugués

El Camino Portugués

For the second Camino in this series I’ve chosen el Camino Portugués (Portuguese Way). It’s the second most popular route to Santiago de Compostela, after the Camino Francés. And also, it is where I live.

As the name suggests, the Camino Portugués goes to Santiago de Compostela from Portugal, but there are a couple of route variations to choose from:

  • The best known one is the central route. The most popular starting point for the Camino Central Portugués is Porto (Oporto in Spanish), which is 240 km from Santiago. If you walk 25 km per day on average, you will need around 10 days to complete it.

 

 Some people start their pilgrimage from the Portuguese capital, Lisbon (Lisboa in Spanish), which is further south. In this case, you will have to cover a distance of around 600 km. You will need approximately 25 days to complete it.

 

  • If you decide to start from Lisboa, you could also take el Camino Portugués interior once you reach Coimbra. This route will take you through the Portuguese towns of Viseu, Vila Real and Chaves. Once you enter Galicia the Camino Portugués interior joins the Vía de la Plata.

 

  • After Oporto, you have two options too: you can continue on the central route through Barcelos, Ponte de Lima and Valença. Or you can take the Camino Portugués por la costa (coastal route).

 

The Camino Portugués in Spain

 

If you follow the central route, Tui will be the first Spanish town you will encounter after crossing the bridge over the river Miño, which serves as a natural border between both countries.

  • Tui was a very important town in medieval times and you can still see many buildings dating back to 15-16th centuries, including its cathedral.

 

  • Porriño is at the centre of an important industrial area. It is one of the world’s biggest granite producers. More on the Porriño-Redondela stage here.

 

  • Redondela. This is where the central and coastal routes meet.

 

  • Arcade is a small coastal town famous for its oysters. Every year, at the beginning of April, Arcade celebrates an oyster festival.

 

  • Pontevedra has one of the most important historical centres in Galicia, after Santiago de Compostela. Most of the city centre has been pedestrianised and Pontevedra has become an internationally acclaimed city, winning awards such as the UN Habitat Award and the Active Design Award.

Pontevedra is also the starting point of the last of the route variations on el Camino Portugués: variante espiritual, which includes a boat ride and joins the central route in Padrón.

 

  • Caldas de Reis is well-known for its thermal waters.

 

  • Padrón is the home of the famous Padrón peppers. If you haven’t heard about them yet, don’t worry! I’m sure you will get the chance to taste them when you do your Camino.

Coastal route of the Camino Portugués

 

If you follow the coastal route, you will have to take a boat from Caminha to A Guarda. From A Guarda, you will continue along the coast towards Vigo, which is the biggest Spanish town on this Camino. After Vigo, the coastal route joins the central route in Redondela.

There is also a variation of this coastal route, going from Caminha to Valença, along the river Minho. After Valença you then continue on to Tui.

If you don’t have enough time, you can do the Spanish section of this Camino, from Tui. It’s 119 km, enough to get a compostela and easily done in less than a week.

**Update: Regardless of the route you choose, you should know that Spain and Portugal are on different time zones. Once you cross over to Spain, you will be one hour ahead.

This document lists all available accommodations along this route. It’s a great resource.

In a previous post, I shared pilgrims recommendations about accommodation on the Camino Portugués. You can read it here. And if you would like to add any further recommendations (accommodation, food…), I’d love to hear your suggestions. 

For more details on some of the stages of the Camino Portugués in Spain:

 

 

Today’s Spanish words 

See inside book of Camino Portugues legends
For a collection of legends and historical tidbits, check my book Historias tras cada paso. Leyendas y curiosidades del Camino Portugués.
All the stories are about places along the Camino Portugués; many of them are directly related to the Camino or St. James.
The book is in Spanish, for intermediate learners, and includes a vocabulary guide with English translation.

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¡Buen Camino!

Where did you stay?

Where did you stay?

Where did you stay?

 

In the past few weeks I wrote about the different types of accommodation where you can stay along the Camino (¿Dónde vas a dormir?, El albergue and ¿Dónde vas a dormir? (II)). And for this post I wanted to get the stories of people who have already done the Camino about places where they stayed. So I asked the question: where did you stay?

 

Which Camino?

 

Although we talk about the Camino de Santiago or the Way of Saint James as if there is just one Camino, the truth is that there are many routes leading to Santiago. There’s the very popular Camino francés, but you could also decide to do the Camino primitivo, Camino del norte, Camino inglés or Camino portugués, to mention just a few.

 

Let’s just look at the Camino portugués today. As the name suggests, it goes from Portugal to Santiago de Compostela. If you start your pilgrimage from the Portuguese capital, Lisbon (Lisboa in Spanish), you will have to cover a distance of around 600 km. If you walk 25 km per day on average, you will need 25 days to complete it.

 

Many people start from Porto; in that case, you will need around diez (10) days to walk the 240 km to Santiago. If you don’t have so much time, you can do the Spanish section of this Camino, from Tui. It’s 119 km (enough to get a compostela) and you can do it in cinco (5) or seis (6) days.

 

In Padrón

 

All the places these pilgrims tell us about are along the Camino portugués. Scott Prunty has a recommendation for you:

You must visit the monastery (monasterio) in Padrón before pushing on to Santiago. It was the highlight of my walk. We were given a tour by the friars that still study there. Then we were joined by local villagers for a beautiful mass (misa) together.

After a communal dinner (cena) with other pilgrims, we slept in the original cells that friars have lived in for centuries. The whole experience just made a connection to the Camino spirit.

 

According to the information in the following link, http://www.alberguescaminosantiago.com/albergues-camino-portugues/hospital-de-peregrinos-san-antonio-de-herbon-herbon-la-coruna/ there are 30 beds in this albergue. You cannot book in advance and you must produce your stamped credencial if you wish to spend the night. Apart from la cena that Scott mentioned, you can also have your desayuno (breakfast) here. They take donativo (voluntary donation).

 

Two places on the coast

 

Vera Wallström would like to recommend two places:

Pazo Pías in Ramallosa was a great place to sleep at! Single room (habitación individual).

And Camping Mougás, after Mougás. They have a saltwater swimming pool (piscina) with a view, lovely after walking 30km!

 

In this link you can find pictures and more information about Pazo Pías: http://pazopias.org/contenidos/peregrino 

Vera’s picture of the pool.

In Porriño

And Tess Bouds had a nice experience at the albergue municipal in Porriño:

It is clean & quiet, even though it’s right next to a very large road. I forgot my glasses when I left and had to visit the policía, who called the cleaning lady. Twenty minutes later, I had them and was off. FYI amazing kitchen which you can use if you carry pots, plates, & utensils.

Do you have an “accommodation story” that you would like to share? Just leave a comment!

 

Basic Spanish Camino vocabulary

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¡Buen Camino!