The Vía de la Plata crosses Spain from south to north, making it one of the longest Caminos in Spain. It starts in Sevilla, in the region of Andalucía and continues through Extremadura and Castilla y León, before entering Galicia.

The distance covered is around 1000 km, depending a bit on the variant you take. You have two options:

• You can walk up to Astorga and then join the Camino Francés for the final stages (260 km).

• Or you can head towards Galicia before you reach Astorga, through the Camino Sanabrés. Granja de Moreruela (in Zamora) is the town where you must decide which way to continue.

The Vía de la Plata is not a difficult route in terms of terrain and elevations, but you will be facing other challenges such as the weather. It is not advisable to walk it during the months of julio (July) and agosto (August) due to the extreme heat. You should still be careful in junio (June) and septiembre (September). The best months would be marzo, abril, mayo (May) and octubre (October).

The distances between towns are long and the services are few, so you need to be prepared and make sure you have enough agua and snacks to make it to the next town. It might be hard if you are planning to do shorter stages.

The signage is not as abundant as in other Caminos but it’s adequate. The Vía de la Plata follows old Roman roads, so you will also see many Roman milestones

I think I’m not making it sound very attractive, but that’s not true. It’s just not the Camino Francés, so you should adjust your expectations and be prepared. It is a much lonelier Camino (only 3.04% of pilgrims chose this route in 2017 according to the Pilgrims office statistics)* and you will be walking a lot through pastures (with lots of cattle). Some of the best cured hams come from this part of the country.

What to see on the Vía de la Plata

But it’s not all cows and pigs. The Vía de la Plata also goes through wonderful cities. In fact, it is the Camino with the highest number of towns on UNESCO’s World Heritage List:

• The cathedral, Alcázar and Archivo de Indias in Sevilla: https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/383

• Mérida, with its Roman amphitheatre, theatre, circus and water-supply system, among other things: https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/664

• The old town of Cáceres: https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/384

• The old city of Salamanca: https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/381

But these are not the only interesting places to see. Zafra, in Extremadura, is a lovely medieval town worth a visit. And Zamora, in Castilla y León, is full of Romanesque arquitecture and also worth a visit.

So, do you think this is the Camino for you?

*Source: https://oficinadelperegrino.com/estadisticas/

Today’s Spanish words

¡Buen Camino!

After a stop for a tapa de pulpo á feira, we’re back to our series about the different Caminos. This week, I’m writing about the Camino Primitivo.

The Camino Primitivo (Primitive Way) is so called because it’s the first Camino pilgrimage of which there is a written record. It follows the route taken by king Alfonso II of Asturias in the 9th century when he visited the sepulchre of St. James, which had just been discovered.

The Camino Primitivo is one of the shortest Caminos, as it covers around 320km from Oviedo (in Asturias) to Santiago de Compostela. It is a route of amazing natural beauty, but it is also the hardest of the Caminos. That’s probably why only 4.5% of pilgrims chose this route in 2017, according to the Pilgrims office statistics).*

It is well signposted and there are albergues and other services all along the way, but there is a lot of going up and down through mountains on dirt paths, loose rocks and mostly difficult terrain. Sometimes, the albergue is the only available service in town, so make sure you check ahead of time and plan accordingly.

The weather in Asturias and Galicia is quite rainy so there will also be mud much of the time. As well as lluvia (rain), you can also expect viento (wind) and niebla (fog) in some areas. It’s not advisable to take this Camino in winter, due to nieve (snow) in the mountains.

The Camino Primitivo route

• As I just mentioned, the Camino Primitivo starts in Oviedo and crosses the mountains on the western part of Asturias, passing through villages such as Salas and Tineo. For things to do and see in Oviedo, check https://www.turismoasturias.es/en/descubre/ciudades/oviedo

• There is a variation called Ruta de los Hospitales, starting at Borres and so called because of the remains of several old mediaeval hospitals. This is allegedly one of the most beautiful sections of the Camino. It covers around 24km but if you are planning to do it you should be aware that it has no services at all. The weather can also be treacherous. So make sure you are well equipped and stay safe!

The Camino Primitivo in Galicia

• The Camino Primitivo enters Galicia through O Acebo pass (1300m altitude) and from there it descends to Fonsagrada (700m).

• The second biggest town on the Camino Primitivo is Lugo. It was founded in the year 25 b.C and it was one of the most important Roman settlements in the Iberian Peninsula. Its Roman walls are mostly intact and they surround the historic centre. They were added to UNESCO’S World Heritage List in 2000 (see https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/987). Definitely worth a visit!

• From Lugo, this Camino continues towards Melide, where it joins the Camino Francés for the last stages.

Do you think this could the be the Camino for you? If you’ve done it, please share your experience!

*Source: https://oficinadelperegrino.com/estadisticas/

Today’s Spanish words

¡Buen Camino!

Next on my series about the different Caminos is the Camino del Norte, the second longest route after Vía de la Plata. It covers a distance of over 800km from Irún in the País Vasco (Basque Country) to Santiago de Compostela.

Last week I wrote about the Variante Espiritual of the Camino Portugués,, which was created around 6 years ago. The Camino del Norte, however, is as old as the Camino Francés. 

In fact, this was the route of choice for most pilgrims in the early days, since the French route was more dangerous then. But as the Spanish Reconquista advanced and the Southern territories became safer, the Northern route lost relevance and the French one became more popular.

So, for centuries, the Camino del Norte was nearly forgotten. But the huge increase in the number of pilgrims in recent years has led people to look for less crowded options. And so the Camino del Norte has seen increasing numbers of pilgrims in the last few years, making it the third most travelled Camino, after the Francés and Portugués (and still, less that 6% of pilgrims chose this route in 2017, according to the Pilgrims office statistics).*

Camino del Norte today

This route is well signposted and there are albergues along the way, although not as many as you would find along the more popular Camino Francés.

The Camino del Norte is one of great natural beauty. Some stretches go along the coast, with its playas (beaches) and acantilados (cliffs), while other sections take you inland through montañas (mountains), valles (valleys) and bosques (forests).

But it’s not all nature. You also get to see some interesting towns and you go through three different regions, before entering Galicia:

• The starting point is the Puente de Santiago (Santiago bridge) in Irún, in the Basque region, or País Vasco, and right on the border with France. From Irún, you’ll walk through mountains to San Sebastián.

San Sebastián (or Donostia in the Basque language) is a very well known touristic city, with a beautiful playa, catedral and other interesting monuments, as well as plenty of cultural activity: It hosts an international cinema festival in September and a jazz festival in July, among others. San Sebastián is also the world capital of pinchos (see this previous post for more info).

Before you get to Bilbao you’ll pass Gernika, which is remembered by the German air raid that destroyed most of the city during the Spanish Civil War (1936-39). This massacre was depicted by Picasso in one of his most famous paintings.

Bilbao is the most populated city in the País Vasco and it has plenty to do and see. You can find more info here: http://www.bilbaoturismo.net/BilbaoTurismo/en/tourists

• After Portugalete, you enter the region of Cantabria, a very mountainous region. Your first main stop here is the fishing village of Castro Urdiales. The town and surrounding area is rich in history: there is evidence of prehistoric settlements, as well as Roman presence. In Medieval times, it was one of the most important ports on the Northern coast.

The capital of Cantabria is Santander, another beautiful city with plenty to do and see (playa, museums, catedral and many more monuments). The local cuisine is based on fish and seafood.

• After Comillas, you are in the last region before Galicia: Asturias, famous for its cider, among other things. The landscape is similar to that of Cantabria, with the coast on one side and the montañas on the other.

Before you reach Gijón, you have the option of continuing on to Oviedo and joining the Camino Primitivo. But that’s for another post. For things to do and see in Gijón, check this website: https://www.gijon.es/es/turismo/descubre-gijon

Camino del Norte in Galicia

• The first Galician town after Asturias is Ribadeo. From here, the Camino turns away from the coast as it heads Southwest towards Santiago.

In Arzúa, you will join the Camino Francés for the last 2 stages. But before you get there, you’ll get the chance to see and enjoy Vilalba (food festivals are its main attraction) and Sobrado, famous for its monasterio, where you can spend the night (check http://www.monasteriodesobrado.org/index.php/pilgrims-hostel/).

So, what do you think? Is this the Camino for you?

*Source: https://oficinadelperegrino.com/estadisticas/

Today’s Spanish words

¡Buen Camino!

We always talk about el Camino de Santiago or The Way as if there was one Camino only, when in reality, there are many -although not all of them are equally known. Some people are not even aware that there are so many Caminos. Anyway, when we hear el Camino (de Santiago), what most of us think of is actually el Camino Francés (French Way), so called because it comes from France.  

In the past, pilgrims used to start their journey from their doorstep. Nowadays, we tend to follow established routes. The French one starts from Roncesvalles on the Spanish side. However, a large number of people these days start their pilgrimage in Saint Jean au Pied du Port in France. That means you have to cross the Pirineos (Pyrenees).

If that is your case, you need to keep in mind that there are two routes: Napoleón and Valcarlos. Napoleón route closes for the winter months, generally from the first of noviembre (November) till the thirty first of marzo (March). However, these dates can vary depending on weather conditions, so if you are planning to cross the Pirineos, make sure you know which route to take and you are well prepared. And always follow recommendations.  

The Regions along the Camino Francés

El Camino Francés goes across most of Spain, from east to west, covering a distance of around 800km (500 miles). It takes between 4 and 6 weeks to complete, depending on your daily mileage and the rest days you take. As it covers such a long distance, the terrain and landscapes are varied: mountains, plains, forests, the Meseta (plateau)…   It also goes through four different regions: Navarra, La Rioja, Castilla y León and Galicia.

• Navarra: el Camino Francés enters Spain through the region of Navarra. As I mentioned earlier, Roncesvalles is the start of this Camino in Spain. Other important towns in Navarra are Pamplona (the capital), Puente la Reina and Estella. Pamplona is famous worldwide for the bull running festival that takes place in July.

• La Rioja: this region is very well-known for its red wines. The Camino goes through its capital: Logroño. Enjoy its food and wines!

• Castilla y León: this is where the Meseta is. But what is the Meseta? It’s just a plateau or high plain. So why does everybody talk about it? Well, some people love it and some don’t. It can be a tough part of the Camino, since there are along stretches without any towns (no café con leche stops!) or shade.

But there are also towns along the Camino in Castilla y León: the main ones are Burgos, León, Astorga and Ponferrada. Both Burgos and León have very important cathedrals; Ponferrada is best known for its templar castle and Astorga has an important museum devoted to… chocolate!

 Getting closer to Santiago de Compostela

• Galicia: you are getting closer to your destination. This section of the Camino is usually busier than the rest; Sarria is a very popular starting point for many: it marks the last 100km, the distance required to get a Compostela certificate.

For the types of accommodation that are available along the Camino, you can check these previous posts:

• ¿Dónde vas a dormir? – Hostales, pensiones, hoteles and some general info on albergues.
• El albergue – More detail info on municipal albergues.
• ¿Dónde vas a dormir? (II) – Casas rurales and paradores, as well as some useful phrases to use when looking for accommodation.

If you have already done the Camino Francés (or part of it), I’d love to hear your experience: best accommodation? favourite town? most delicious food you tasted? Anything you can think of! 

For a detailed guide of Pamplona, check Pamplona with Jose Mari Ardanaz.

Improve your Spanish while you walk the Camino with one of my journals.

You can actually start using them before you even travel, since they include a section to help you plan your Camino (stages, packing list, etc.). 2 versions available: with with space to record up to 40 days and another one, for shorter Caminos, with space for up to 15 days.

Basic Spanish Camino vocabulary

¡Buen Camino!